I hadn’t intended to spend most of the fall so far preparing numerous skillets of baked, gooey, indulgent macaroni and cheese. However, considering the current circumstances, perhaps this consistent indulgence in comfort food turned out to be some unplanned brilliance on my part. It all began when we had baked mac and cheese from The Smith one night. My children scrambled for the last bits left in the pan, and I reminded them—though I doubt they realize it sometimes—that I could also make it for them. So, the next evening, I pulled out my reliable Martha's mac-and-cheese recipe, a long-time favorite both for me and on the internet, but it instantly …frustrated me. Starting with cooked pasta? Warming the milk for the bechamel? Too many pots, too many bowls, too many steps. On a Tuesday, no less. It felt unacceptable.
Once something irritates me, I tend to forget my other editorial intentions. I was now driven by a desire to make it better, simpler, and more practical for my real life in 2024. Since then, I have made it one to two more times each week (my friends and family appreciate me right now, thank you very much), attempting to cut down on time, steps, and keeping it straightforward enough that I’ve nearly memorized it. The outcome is my new forever favorite baked macaroni and cheese, combining the easiest mac and cheese elements (no boiling pasta required) with the best parts of Martha's (a rich, perfect sauce) and minimal fuss.
Here are a few specifics:
Uncooked pasta: By soaking the uncooked pasta in hot tap water for 10 minutes, there's no need to boil, which simplifies the process. I preferred this approach because even when I reduced the boiling time to 3 or 4 minutes, the pasta still ended up too soft by the time the dish emerged from the oven. I tested this soaking method with Barilla, De Cecco, and Trader Joe's elbow macaroni brands, and all achieved perfect tenderness with just a 10-minute soak followed by a 30-minute bake.
Single pan: Making the cheese sauce in an ovenproof skillet means only one pan is used, which I find delightful as someone who dislikes doing dishes.
Toasted crumbs: I found that the buttered breadcrumbs didn’t brown enough in the oven, so I started toasting them in the skillet first. They also gain a browned butter flavor, which is always a hit. (The ones in the photos are a bit darker than intended but still tasted great.)
Seasoning and spice: I see this as a fundamental recipe with a simple flavor base: salt, black pepper, cayenne, and a touch of nutmeg. My children aren’t fond of mustard powder or smoked paprika, but that doesn't mean you can't customize flavors to suit your taste. Here are some suggestions: Add a teaspoon of mustard powder, 1 teaspoon of smoked paprika (hot or mild), a clove of minced garlic, a few shakes of hot sauce, and/or some fresh thyme leaves.
Cheese choices: My ideal blend for baked mac and cheese consists of 1 part pecorino (salty and slightly funky), 2 parts gruyère (nutty and well-blended), and 3 parts sharp white cheddar (classic and excellent). However, I’ve substituted gruyère with various cheeses like comté, jack, gouda, fontina, and even raclette, all of which turned out wonderfully. Look for cheeses that are melty, nutty, and have a hint of funkiness. If you substitute pecorino with parmesan, you may want to slightly increase the salt content. For an even cheesier dish, you can raise the cheddar amount from 6 to 8 ounces.
Size and yield: While I typically prepare it as described for 4 servings, it can be easily doubled in a 12-inch round skillet, my favored braiser, or a 9×13-inch baking dish for larger holiday gatherings. The baking time remains the same.
Evaporated milk: I discovered while making Kenji Lopez-Alt’s three-ingredient stovetop mac and cheese for our first podcast episode last spring that using evaporated milk—the canned kind—in place of some or all regular milk in mac and cheese can help maintain a creamy and smooth sauce due to a higher concentration of milk proteins. I tested this a few times by substituting half the milk with a 12-ounce can of evaporated milk (which equals 1.5 cups), and the sauce indeed had a slightly smoother texture, especially when reheated. However, I wasn’t strict about it; I used it when available and believe the recipe remains excellent with all regular milk.
It’s here! The special audiobook edition of Smitten Kitchen Keepers, titled Smitten Kitchen Keepers: A Kitchen Counter Conversation, published yesterday
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A no-boil, one-skillet, incredibly comforting and indulgent baked macaroni and cheese that has completely captivated me in the most wonderful way and has become my new favorite.