braised leeks and lentils served with arugula and yogurt

      I’ve been longing for a refreshing way to blend leeks and lentils in a straightforward, one-pot recipe suitable for weeknights, though I often find myself frustrated by one detail: leeks can be quite bothersome — and I say this with affection! I believe leeks are among the most beautiful vegetables, showcasing a gradient of colors from buttery yellow to pea green, and finally to a light lima shade. They perfectly embody the essence of spring (even if it's technically July outside and will turn to March again soon), and their flavor is even better: they’re oniony but gentle, silky, delightful, and slightly sweet when braised. They should be ubiquitous, but first, we need to tackle the issue that arises when you head to the store or market for a bundle of leeks; you simply can't predict how much leek you're going to get.

      Here’s my mini-rant: A “bundle” could contain two leeks or maybe four. The leeks could vary from being thick and gritty, with only two or three inches of the white/pale green sections that most recipes require, to resembling the ideal photos, with slender stalks yielding a lot of usable parts. How can one create a recipe when the quantity you end up with can range anywhere from 1 to 4 cups, thanks to this produce gamble? Weight, the most dependable method for purchasing nearly any other ingredient, doesn’t help here, as it relates to the usable portion of the vegetable, which can’t be accurately weighed at the store.

      [I just said “usable portion of the vegetable.” I can’t believe I still have friends!]

      My approach is to craft a recipe that remains unaffected by the amount of leek you have; it will work no matter what. You simply sauté thick rings of whatever leeks you have in olive oil in a pan* and then leave them there as you add garlic, a bunch of scallions, lemon zest, broth, and dried lentils. Bring it to a simmer, transfer it to the oven to finish cooking (40 to 45 minutes), and in the meantime, prepare a yogurt sauce with lemon juice and garlic, and an abundantly dressed arugula salad, ensuring there's plenty of dressing at the bottom of the bowl. You can enjoy the final dish directly from the pot, topping it with the yogurt, scattering the greens over, and using the dressing runoff to enhance the lentils, or serve it on a plate. I like to start with a slice of sourdough fried in olive oil; it’s perfect for mixing everything together and scooping it up. This dish truly satisfies me — it’s a comforting pot of legumes and a salad, simple with a short ingredient list, and fantastic for leftovers. I hope you become as enamored with it as I am.

      * Am I using the new pink peony Staub x Smitten Kitchen Braiser to lure the pink-obsessed, lentil-averse 10-year-old who lives with me? Absolutely. Did it work? Bwahaha…

      Braised Leeks and Lentils with Arugula and Yogurt

      1 bundle leeks (typically 3 to 4)

      Olive oil

      Kosher salt

      Freshly ground black pepper

      3 garlic cloves, two thinly sliced, one minced

      1 cup dried lentils de puy (200 grams) (my go-to), rinsed

      1 bundle scallions (usually 4 to 6), thinly sliced (both white and green parts)

      Finely grated zest and juice of 1 large lemon

      3 cups (710 ml) vegetable broth (my go-to)

      1 cup (230 grams) plain, unsweetened yogurt

      2 to 3 ounces (55 to 85 grams) baby arugula leaves, or more to taste

      Preheat your oven to 350°F (175°C).

      Prepare your leeks: Leeks are known for being sandy. Start by cutting off any parts of each leek that are darker than light green. Trim the root ends. Peel back the layers until there’s no visible dirt left that can’t be rinsed off. Rinse thoroughly to remove any remaining dirt or grit. Clean your counter and knife (as they will likely have a lot of dirt), then slice the white and pale green parts into 1-inch rings.

      On the stove: In a large (3 to 4 quarts) ovenproof pan with a lid (I’m using this), or alternatively, a wide, deep skillet for the stovetop part that you can then transfer to a baking dish for braising, heat a couple of tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the leek slices and lightly season with salt and pepper; cook until browned on one side, about 4 to 5 minutes, then flip and cook until the other side is browned as well, around 3 to 4 minutes. Add