Friends, it’s the season for snickerdoodles. If you weren't aware that snickerdoodles have a season, let me set the scene for you: you’re walking into your home on a blustery, unexpectedly cold October day because you didn’t dress warmly enough. You can’t wait to say what makes my kids chuckle every time I walk in: “Well, that’s enough of doing things for me today!” and you promise to avoid “being outside” and “hard pants” for the rest of the night. But wait! What is this divine scent of warm buttery cinnamon sugar that has filled the air? Is it a scented candle, representing the idea of something you adore but lacking its essence? No, it’s snickerdoodles. And you’re about to indulge in a warm one, which feels like being enveloped in It’s The Great Pumpkin, Charlie Brown while also enjoying being that dog. I’m not implying that you can’t have this delightful sensory experience in January or June, but it resonates on a uniquely profound level when the cold air is still a fresh encounter.
In 2009, just a day before the arrival of my first child, I shared a recipe for traditional snickerdoodles, the old-fashioned type made with cream of tartar and baking soda instead of baking powder, known for their slightly flattened shape with crisp edges. They’re tasty, award-winning, and will remain in the archives just as they are. However, as I savored them a few weeks back, a vision crystallized in my mind of what they could be—perhaps the ultimate snickerdoodle, a combination of seven words I’m quite sure no one has audaciously strung together before. After several weeks of experimentation, they’ve arrived, and I can’t stop raving about them. Here are a few features that distinguish them:
Thicker and more tender: They’re not cakey but possess a wonderfully gentle bite with softly crisp edges. They achieve this through the addition of a touch of cream cheese, similar to my confetti cookies. This element also adds much-needed complexity to what is typically a classic drop sugar cookie—good but somewhat uninspiring.
Brown butter: My fondness for brown butter is well known, but I prefer to reserve its use for instances where it can truly shine, and here, it undeniably does.
Vanilla bean: I briefly questioned whether vanilla bean paste would contribute more to a Pinterest keyword overload than enhance the flavor, but after trying it, I realized I was completely mistaken. It’s divine in this recipe.
My favorite cinnamon: While it’s optional, my all-time favorite, Burlap & Barrel’s Royal Cinnamon, truly elevates the recipe. Don’t hesitate to be like adventurous Deb and purchase it in one-pound containers, sharing with friends if they’re good to you.
This is my forever snickerdoodle recipe, the last one I’ll ever need, and I eagerly anticipate it finding a cherished place in your collection as well.
Brown Butter Snickerdoodles
1 cup (8 ounces or 225 grams) unsalted butter (see Note), 3 tablespoons (45 grams) water (see Note), 3 cups (400 grams) all-purpose flour, 1 1/4 cups (250 grams) granulated sugar + 3 tablespoons (40 grams) for rolling, 1 teaspoon baking powder, 1/4 teaspoon baking soda, 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt (Diamond brand, half for others), 1/4 cup (2 ounces, 55 grams or 1/4 of an 8-ounce brick) cream cheese, in chunks, 1 large egg, 1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract or vanilla bean paste, 1 1/2 tablespoons (10 grams) ground cinnamon.
Brown your butter: In a medium saucepan, melt the butter over medium-high heat. It will melt, then foam, then turn a clear golden color with toasted speckles appearing. As soon as you see them, remove the pan from the heat; the residual heat will continue to toast the butter to a medium brown. Pour the butter, including all the toasted bits, into a medium bowl, slowly add the 3 tablespoons of water, then place the bowl in the freezer.
Chill the browned butter: We want the butter to freeze until it’s completely solid, but trust me, this speeds up the process: Freeze the butter in the bowl for 30 minutes, then stir well, scraping down the sides and mixing the still melted parts in the center with the solidified chunks. Return to the freezer for another 15 to 30 minutes—the butter should now be firm throughout. Cut it into chunks right in the bowl, no need to even out the sizes.
To make the cookies in a food processor: Place the flour, 1 1/4 cups (250 grams) of sugar, baking powder,
The snickerdoodle recipe I've always envisioned: thick and tender (yet never cakey), infused with the delightful scents of brown butter and vanilla bean, enhanced by a hint of cream cheese, and undoubtedly offering the most delightful aroma on the planet to…
